Method of weaving two-ply figured fabrics



(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 1.

A. D. EMERY. METHOD OF WBAVING TWO PLY FIGURED FABRICS. No. 415,146. Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

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(No Model.) 5 Shets-Sheet 2.

A. D. EMERY.

METHOD OF WEAVING TWO PLY FIGURED FABRICS. No. 415,146. Patented Nov. 12, 1 889.

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(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 3. A. D. EMERY.

METHOD OF WEAVING TWO PLY FIGURED FABRICS.

No. 415,146. Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

A. D. EMERY. METHOD OF WEAVING TWO PLY FIGURED FABRICS.

No. 415,146. Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

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(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 5.

A. D. EMERY.

METHOD OF WEAVING TWO PLY FIGURED FABRICS.

No. 415,146. Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

UNITED STATES PATENT FFICE.

ABRAM D. EMERY, OF TAUN"ON, MASSAO] IUSETTS.

METHOD OF WEAVING TWO-PLY FIGURED FABRICS.

SPECIFZCATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 415,146, dated November 12, 1889. Application filed March 6, 1889. fierial No. 302,146. (No model.)

To all w/wm it may concern:

Be it known that I, ABRAM D. EMERY, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Taunton, in the county of Bristol and State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Method of \Yeaving Two-Ply Figured Fabrics, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to the art of weaving two-ply figured fabrics of a width considerably greater than the width of the reed, as more broadly set forth in my application filed by me March 6, 188.), Serial Noj 302,145. The method set forth in that application consists, generally speaking, in weaving the fabric in two parts, side by side,in the loomas, for instance, one above the other using two distinct weft-threads, which are simultaneously passed through the two parts of the fabric, one through each part, the weftthreads being passed by each other uniformly at one side of the loom where the center of the fabric is formed and into a continuation of the same shedding, forming a fabric which a three-leaf twilldouble-weightgoods. ()ne weft-thread is carried across the fabric and is placed at all times on the fa cc of the fabric, while in like manner the other weft-thread is simultaneously carried across in an opposite direction and kept on the back of the fabric at all times. As the fabric is woven in the loom and in its folded state the face of the lower part or half of the fabric is out ermost or turned down.

In this specification I make use of the following terms, which I will herein describe: A double shedding is two shcddings made at the same time in each of the two halves one for figure and the other forground weftthreads. A pick is the layer of weft filling each of these two sheddings, each shedding being filled with its correspomling weftthread, and in relation to the passage of the weft-th reads from sclvage to selvage would be, in fact, two half-picks. A double pick is two picks, or a complete layer of both ground and figure weft-threads from selvage to selvage. Two double picks are required to form a square of pattern. In all reference to a square of pattern it is understood to be the distance occupied by the four chain threads across the fabric and the would be shed for ground.

length occupied by the threads of two double picks lengthwise of the same, which in all cases forms a square. The pattern is formed of the requisite number of squares of figure and ground ply arranged to produce such designs as are desired.

In my present invention the two weftthreads are contained on both the face and back of the fabric for any required distance across the fabric, and the space occupied by one weft-thread on one side will be occupied by the other weft-thread in the corresponding portion of the opposite side. The fabric is a regular two-ply figured goods composed of two sets of chain-threads and two weftthreads of different color-one for the figure and the other for the ground. I form the fabric in two partsone over or alongside the otheran (I pass simultaneou sly a ground and a figure thread through the two shcddings of the opposite parts. At one movement of the shuttle or shedding the figure-thread would be passed through one portion and a groundthread through the opposite portion, and at the next shedding a ground-thread would be carried through the part which previously received a figurethread, the opposite part, which previously received a ground-thread, receiving this time a ligurethrcad. Thus if one side were shed for figure the opposite side At the next shedding the side that was shed for figure would then be shed for ground and the one that had been shed for ground would be shed for figure. The two sheds formed at one time are made over or alongside one another, forming a double shedding, and the two weltthreads are carried through them, say, from the back of the loom, from the stationary boxes on the rear, and into the transferringboxes on the front of the loom, where they are shifted in their positions, the one received into the top being transferred to the bottom and the one received in the bottom being passed to the top, as fully set forth in my application above referred to. In that application the facethread was uniformly turned toward the cloth whether the shuttle carrying the face-thread was in the top or bottom box for the purpose of keeping the face-thread on the outside or face of the cloth. In this specification this regular order will at times be interrupted .tion would cause the boxes to and then continued on in regular order for a given time. The thread that is to be on the face, or outside on the turn or center, whether it is a figure or ground thread, is turned toward the cloth whether it be in the bot tom or top position. This mode of transfer ring would be continued on until a change takes place in the color of the face of the fabric at the center, when the shuttle that has been turned away from the cloth would then be turned toward the cloth. This last operabe turned twice in the same direction at the two successive transfers. Thus, assuming that the figurethread is in the top box and is to be on the face of the fabric at the turn, then the top box will be turned to the bottom toward the cloth. If, by the change of pattern, the figurethread is to be on the back at the turn at the next pick, then the figure-thread at the next transfer is turned to the top away from the cloth, thus making two consecutive movements of the shuttle-boxes in the same direction. The regular order of transferring then follows un tila change of pattern again occurs.

In this, as in my previous application referred to, the thread that is to be on the outside or face is to be turned toward the fabric, whether from top to bottom or bottom to top. The figure and ground threads are carried through the fabric simultaneously, and each starts from one of the selvage sides of the same and passes-to the center, and at the next shedding they each pass into the opposite part of the fabric and continue on to the opposite selvage.

In this, as in my previous application, it takes four double sheddings to complete the sequence of the positions of the shuttles carrying the weft-threads, the sheddings being suitably timed for the passage of the same. Starting with the figure-thread carried by the shuttle in the rear top box and the groundthread carried by the shuttle in the bottom rear box, at the first double shedding the chain would be shed for figure at the top and ground for the bottom,-and the shuttles carrying their respective figure and ground threads are carried through from the rear to the front, where they are received in the front reversible shuttle-boxes. At this point the threads are carried into an opposite position with reference to the two halves of the fabric by passing the figure-shuttle in the top box to the bottom toward the cloth if the figure-,

thread is to be on the outside at the turn or center, or the reverse if the ground-thread is to be on the outside. The shuttles are then passed through the sheddings for the same, the top being shed for ground and the bottom for figure. Thus two weft-threads are passed across the fabric from selvage to selvage-one weft-thread in each ply. It will be evident that in this operation the positions of the shuttles in the rearstationary boxes in the loom have been reversed,the shuttle carrying the figure-thread beingin the bottom the sheddings made by shedding the top part for figure and the bottom part for ground. The shuttles are now in theirinitial positions in the rear stationary boxes, each having passed from one side of the fabric to the other and returned.

It will beobserved that the top and bottom parts as formed in the loom are shed twice consecutively via, for ground and figure, respectively. If one side is shed for ground, the opposite side is shed for figure,

and vice versa.

The shuttles are returned from the rear boxes through the same part of the fabric in which they were previously passed in their passage from the center to the back. In fact, they not only pass through the same half of the fabric, but through the same ply as well.

The weft-threads returning through the same halves of the fabric and into the same ply of said half through which they passed to the rear necessitates the shedding twice for that thread, be it figure or ground, while the opposite part is shed for the other complementary weft-thread. This necessitates the shedding of the opposite sides twice in succession for one thread of weft, while the complementary side is shed for the other weft-thread, and, at

the next two sheddings, of reversing the same and making for bottom what was previously top, and vice versa. Thus each side will be shed twice for figure and then twice for ground. It will also be noticed in so doing a figurethread will be laid in the fabric on one side before the ground-thread, and on the other side of the same pick a ground-thread will be laid in first. Upon continuing on the threads from the center to the opposite selvages a figure-thread will pass in front of the groundthread informing the pattern, while on the opposite part of the same pick the ground weft-thread will lie over the figure weft-thread in the passage from one side to the other. This will not make any difference in the appearance of the face of the fabric, but is a peculiarity due to the manner of forming the same. It will also be observed that the two selvages are simultaneously formed, one being made with the ground weft-thread, the other with the figure weft-thread. The two weft-threads also alternate each other in pass ing the same selvage.

There is no drop-box used in this process, as the two shuttles carrying their respective weft-threads are in motion simultaneously in the process of formation. While one is passing through one ply in one passing through the other ply in the oppo- IIO part the other is site part of each separate pick of pattern. In

relation to the fabric opened out a shuttle enters from each of the selvage sides and passes toward the center, where the two shuttles pass by each other and continue on to the opposite sid es,whence they return in the same manner. In this process a figure and a ground thread are passed part of the way across the fabric at one double shedding and their pas sage completed at the next double shedding.

The harness-threads are operated by a Jacquard mechanism suitably modified to produce the desired result.

I deem it sufficient in this application to say that it is so arranged that the machine will shed the chainthreads of the top part and the chain-threads of the bottom part simultaneously with one pattern-card. It is also possible to shed both the top and bottom parts with one set of harness-cords, each cord having two mails, one carrying a thread for the bottom and one for top, or the two separate cords may be joined together and at tached to one Jacquard needle. This is possible when a pattern is formed from the center and the pattern is the same in both halves. The threads of the top and bottom part will then be properly operated by attaching a fig ure chain-thread on one side and the proper ground chain-thread of the other side to one harness-cord. The chain-threads in each ply are divided into two portions, one half of each portion being over and the other half under its respective weft-thread across the width of the fabric. It is evident that to maintain the order of over and under the weft-threads across the cloth the threads of the chain of the lower half, as they lie in the loom, must be notated in an opposite direction to those of the top. Thus, if we begin at the lower half, alongside the selvage, and n umber toward the center, those on the top would be numbered in an opposite direction, or from the center toward the upper selvage, to maintain their relative positions across the face of the fabric. For example, if we begin at the lower selvage and call the first of the two chain-threads for the figure-ply 1., and the first of the two threads for the ground-ply 2, and the second of the figure-ply E3, and the second of the ground-ply 1, then the threads that will be over them in the upper half will be numbered in the same manner in an opposite direction. Thus over the lower groundply thread I will be figureply 1, over lower figure-ply thread I} will be ground-ply 2, over lower ground-ply 2 will be figure-ply 3, and over lower figure-ply 1 will be ground-ply 4.

In coupling the harnessthreads of the two plies together it would be i of the bottom ground and l of the top figure, 3 of the bot tom figure-ply and 2 of the top ground-ply, 2 of the bottom ground-ply and 3 of the top figure-ply, and 1 of the bottom figure-ply and l of the top ground-ply. Now, if it be considered that a shedding is to be made in both halves that shall be alike in the pattern and that the thread 1 is to be over the figure weftthread, that thread at is to be under the ground weft-thread, with 2 and 3 between, then, by lifting 1 of the top, having 4 of the bottom attached thereto, we are making a shedding proper to pass a ground weft-thread through the bottom and a figure weft-thread through the top, and at the next shedding, by depressing l of the top, with 1 of the bottom attached thereto, we are shedding properly to pass a fig u re-th read through the bottom and a ground weft-tl'iread through the top, and have both the figure and ground weft-threads between their relative chain-threads in their proper relative positions in each ply and forming a complete relation to each other in all respects in both parts of the fabric. Thus the figure chain-thread 1 will be over the figure weftthread on the face and the ground chainthread at will be under the ground weft-th read in both parts of the fabric. This sequence holds good whether a figure or ground thread is to be on the face, as will hereinafter be shown.

It the pattern is what is termed a running pattern, or one in which the figure would continue across the full width of the fabric, or a series of small figures-such as flowers or leaves that would incline in one direction across the fabricthen, from the circumstance that the figures in the lower half would point in an opposite direction, it is not possible to have the harness-threads attached as above; but it is necessary to have a separate set of harness threads and needles, so as to be able to form the figures in each separate part, each of which would require different lifting of threads to form the required figure. The threads of the two halves are shed in like manner to preserve the sequence of the threads, the two parts being shed for figure and ground in the same manner as in the previous method of shedding.

In the Jacquard mechanism shown in Figu re 2 one card is punched for ground and another for figure, as required by the pattern, for each pick; but in sewing the same together the following order is to be observed, viz: Beginning with the shuttle for the figure-thread in the rear top box, then the card punched for lifting for the figure weft-th read will operate on the pattern-cylinder. This card is followed by the card for lifting for the ground-thread to complete the double pick. This would be "followed by the card punched for the ground of the next pick of pattern, and this card" would be followed in turn by the card punched for figure of same pick. This would place the cards in the following order: figure,grou n d, ground, figure, and so on in regular order. In case the figure continues all the way across without a repeat, or is different on the lower side from what it is on the top side, then the Jacquard, as shown in Fig. 1, is employed, as one half of each card must be punched for figure and the remaining half for ground to properly form the sheddings for figure weft- IIO i to the completed fabric.

thread in one half and ground-thread in the other half. The position of the weft-threads being as in Fig. 2, just described, the part of the card governing the top half of the chain would require to be punched for figure, the other half for ground. The next card would require to be punched in opposition-that is, the part previously punched for figure would require to be punched for ground, and the part punched for ground to be punched for figure, and, as the lower half of the card, as illustrated, governs the top half of the chain and the top the bottom half of the chain, the first card would be punched bottom part for figure, top for ground. The second card would i be bottom part for ground,top for figure; the

third,bottom part for ground, top for figure of the next pick. The fourth card would bebottom part for figure, top part for ground, and this order would be continued. In this Jacquard mechanism any desired pattern can be produced, while in the mechanism shown in Fig. 2 the pattern of the bottom half must be a duplicate of the top half.

I have illustrated in the accompanying drawings and will hereinafter describe some of the ways in which my invention may be carried into effect.

' Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate, diagrammatically, the component parts of a loom so far as they are essential to the understanding of the present invention. Fig.8 is an enlarged side elevation of the first double shedding and pick, and corresponds to Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4 is a transverse longitudinal section of the first double shedding, taken at a point in front of the lay in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 5 is a side view of the second double shedding and pick. Fig. 6 is a cross-section of the second double shedding. Fig. 7 is a side view of the third double shedding and pick. Fig. 8 is a cross-section of the third double shedding. Fig.9 is a side view of the fourth double shedding and pick. Fig. 10 is a cross-section of the fourth double shedding. Fig. 11 is a crosssection of the fabric on the line of the first double pick at the turn of the center of p the fabric and shows the position taken by the threads as beaten up into the completed fabric. Fig. 12 is across-section of the fabric on the line of the second double pick and shows the completion of the passage of the weft-threads from one selvage to the opposite one, as well as the positions of the several chain-threads in each ply and their relation Fig. 13 is a crosssection of the fabric on the line of the third double pick and shows the threads in position as beaten up into the fabric as well as the position of the weft-threads at the front or turn. Fig. 14 is a cross-section of the fabric in the line of the fourth double shedding and shows the weft-threads as they appear beaten up into the completed fabric, each being in its initial position.- Fig. 15 is a side elevation of the fifth double shedding and pick. Fig. 16 is a cross-section of the :fifth double shedding. Fig. 17 isaside elevaline ofthe fifth double pick and shows the position of the threads at the turn at the center. Fig. 24 is a cross-section of the fabric on the line of the sixth double pick, showing the threads in position beaten up into the fabric. Fig. 25 is a cross-section of the fabric on the line of the seventh. double pick at the turn, showing the threads in position as beaten up into the fabric. Fig. 26 shows a cross-section of the fabric on the line of the eighth double pick and-shows the threads beaten up into the completed fabric. Fig. 27 shows a plan view of the fabric in. process of formation, as well as the position of both the chain and weft threads as they would appear upon the formation of the first double half-pick. Fig. 28 is a crosssection of the same. Fig. 29 is a plan view of the fabric in process of formation and shows the second double half-pick beaten up in place, and with both the figure and ground weft-threads extending across the fabric from selvage to selvage, forming the first complete double pick, as well as the relative position of the several chain-threads. Fl 30 is a cross-section of the same and shows the po-' sition of the weft-thread in the two plies, as well as the chain-threads in their relative positions in each ply. Fig. 31 is a plan view of the fabric in process of formation at the completion of the third double half-pick and shows the position taken by the threads forming the same. Fig. 32 is a cross-section of the fabric at the completion of the third half-pick and shows the position of the two plies and the threads forming the same. Fig. 33 is a plan View of the fabric at the completion of the fourth double half-pick and shows the threads as they appear at the completion of two double picks or one square of pattern, both the ground and figure threads having passed twice across the width of the fabric. Fig. 34 is a cross-section of the same and shows the position of the threads as they appear in the two plies. Fig. 35 is a plan view of the fabric in process of formation at the completion of the fifth double half-pick. Fig. 3G is a cross-section of the. same. Fig. 37 is a plan view of the fabric in the process of formation at the completion of the sixth double half-pick and the position of the threads forming the third double pick. Fig. 38 is a cross-section of the same and shows the relative positions of the threads in each ply. Fig.

39 is a plan view of the fabric in the process of formation at the completion of the seventh double half-.pick. Fig. 40 is a cross-section Fig. 22 is of the same. Fig. 11 is a plan of the fabric in the process of formation at the completion of the eighth double half-pick or the fourth double pick or square of pattern and shows the relative positions of all the threads. Fig. 12 is a cross-section of the same and shows the relative position of the weft and chain threads in each ply.

Referring now more particularly to Fig. 1, the numerals l 2, 3, and 1 represent the chainthreads of each of the two halves of the chain, 1 and being the figure chain-threads, and 2 and 1 being the ground chain-threads. Each of these four group-threads is required to form one square of pattern, and as many sets of four threads as are required to complete the full width of the fabric will of course be employed in practice. Both halves of the chain are composed of figure and ground threads, two of each being required to form each separate ply for each square of pattern. The numeral 5 represents the ground weftthread, which is contained between the chainthreads 2 and l and is shown plain. Numeral t3 represents the figure weft-thread, which is contained between the chain-threads 1 and 3 and shown as shaded in all the views. Numeral 5.) represents the reed through which the chain-threads pass and by which they are beaten up into the fabric. Numeral designates the shuttle carrying the groundthread 5. The numeral 11 represents the shuttle carrying the figure-thread G. The numeral 12 represents the fabric in process of formation. Numeral 13 designates the whip-roll over which the top half of the chain passes. The numeral 11 represents the whiproll over which the bottom half of the chain passes. The numeral 15 designates the harness-cords whose attached mails govern the lifting of the chain-threads 1 of the upper half of the chain. The numeral 16 represents the harnesscords whose mails govern threads 2 of the upper half. The numeral 17 represents the harness-cords operating threads 2 and the numeral 18 represents the harnesscords operating the threads 1 of the upper half of the chain. The numeral 1'.) represents the harness-cords governing the threads 4, the numeral 20 the harness-threads governing the threads 3, the numeral 21 the harnessthreads governing the threads 2, and the numeral 22 the cords operating the threads 1 of the lower half of the chain. The numeral. 23 designates the comber-board through which the harness-cords pass. The numeral 21 represents the bottom board governing the lowering of the books which operate the threads of the lower half of the chain. 25 represents the griif for lifting the hooks which govern the threads of the bottom half of the chain. The numeral 2H designates the bottom board governing the lowering of the hooks which operate the threads of the upper half of the chain, and 27 designates the gritt for lifting the hooks governing the upper half of the chain. Numeral 2S designates the hook whose attached cord governs thread 1; 25), the hook whose attached cord governs thread 2; 30, the hook whose cord governs thread and 31 the hook whose attached cord governs thread 4 of the upper half of the chain. Numeral 32 designates the hook whose attached cord governs thread at; 33, the hook whose cord governs thread 3; 34, the hook whose cord governs thread 2, and 35 the hook whose attached cord governs the thread 1 of the lower half of the chain. 36 represents the cross wires or needles governing the positions of the hooks 28, 29, 30, and 31. 37 represents the cross wires or needles governing the hooks 32, 33:3, 31, and 35. 38 is the pattern or card cylinder, the punchings of the attached cards thereupon governing the position of the cross wires or needles 36 and 37 for operating the hooks governing the top and bottom chain. 52 designates the leads attached to the harness-cords.

In Fig. 2 like parts are represented by like numerals, with the following exceptions: The harness-cords 15 and 10 of Fig. 1 are supplanted by one cord, as shown at t7; the cords 16 and 20 by one, as shown at 18; the cords 17 and 21 by one, as shown at 49, and cords 1S and by one, as shown at 50. The comber-board 51 is narrower and has only four cords in place of eight, as in Fig. 1, due to the coupling up of two mails to one harness-cord, and likewise there is only one bottom board 40 and one griff 39 in place of two in Fig. 1. The hook whose attached cord governs thread 1 of the upper and thread 4 of the lower chain is shown at 41. Hook 42 likewise governs thread 2 of the upper and thread 3 of the lower chain. 43 governs thread 3 of the upper and 2 of the. lower part of the chain, and the hook whose attached cord governs thread 1 of the upper and 1 of the lower part of the chain is shown at 4:4. 45 are the cross wires or needles. 456, the pattern-cylinder, and 53 the leads for applying tension to the harness-cords, which leads are of increased weight, due to the fact that they are designed to operate both halves of the chain. In the enlarged views the numeral 7 designates the selvage chain-thread of the lower half, and 8 the selvage chain-thread of upper half, of the chain-threads.

Referring now to Fig. 1, the two shuttles carrying the weft-threads are represented as being in the rear stationary boxes, shuttle 11 in the top carrying the shaded figurethread 6, attached thereto and extending to the upper selvage, and shuttle 10 in the bottom carrying ground plain thread 5, attached thereto and extending to the selvage on the bottom part of tie fabric in the process of formation. The Jacquard hook 28, carrying the harness-cord l5, governing chain-thread 1, is lifted, and hooks 2f), 30, and 31, carrying the harness-cords 16, 17, and 18, governing the chain-threads 2, 2}, and lot the upper half of chain, are de )ressed, while hook 32, carrying the harness-cord 19, governing the chain- ICO thread 4, is raised, and hooks 33, 3t, and 35, carrying the harness-cords 20, 21, and 22, governing the chain-threads 3, 2, and 1 of the lower part of the chain, are depressed to form the two paths in the different parts of the fabric, the upper half for the figure weftthread 6 and the bottom for the ground weftthread 5. The part of the double shedding shown in this figure represents the upper an d lower portion of the face at the turn of the fabric and not the whole shedding across the full width of the fabric.

The full shedding is shown in the enlarged side view in Fig. 3 and in cross-section in Fig. 4, in which it will be seen that the top half is shed for figure and the bottom for ground, with the figure weft-thread 6 in the top and ground-thread 5 in the bottom. The threads 5 and 6 extend from the rear to the front of the sheddin gs, the figure-thread 6 passing from the back to the face around the selvage chain-thread 3, and the ground weftthread 5 passing from the face to the back around the sclvage-thread 7. These selvagethreads are moved together to make the two separate sheddings. This is not compulsory, as they can be moved in opposite directions, if desired. Thus both may be.brought to the center and at the next shedding separated without departing from the spirit of my invention. In this manipulation both the figure and ground weft-threads would pass from one side of the fabric to the opposite side instead of in the manner shown. The previous passage of the two weft-threads through the two plies is also shown beaten up, and is the same as the last two of the pattern, as shown in Fig. 26.

By starting from the upper selvage-thread 8 the first two squares are shed for figure by raising the figure chain-thread 1 and depressing the figure chain-thread 3, as well as both ground chain-threads 2 and 4-. This will throw the figure weft-thread 6 on the face at this point. The next two squares are shed to throw the figure weft-thread 6 on the back of the fabric, and are shed with figure chai n-thread 3 depressed and the figure chain-thread 1, as well as the ground chain-threads 2 and at, raised. This will throw the figure-thread on the back of the fabric at this point. The next space is that at the turn or center of the fabric, and in that the figure chain-thread 1 is lifted and 3 depressed, as well as ground chain-threads 2 and 4, to bring the figure-thread on the face. This shedding when the wcfts are beaten up will place the figure-thread two squares "on the back and three on the face, two squares being next the selvage and one at the turn or center of the fabric.

The shedding for the ground-thread in the bottom part is as follows: Beginning at the lower selvage-thread '7, the first two squares of pattern are shed to bring the ground-thread on the back by raising ground chain-thread at and lowering the other ground chain-thread 2, as well as figure chain-threads 1 and 3.

The next two squares are shed to bring the ground-thread 5 on the face by lowering ground chain-thread 2 and lifting ground chain-thread 4, as well as figure-threads 1 and 3. At the next one square of pattern is shed to bring the ground weft-thread on the back by lifting ground chain-thread 4 and lower.- ing chain-thread 2, as well as figure chainthreads 1 and 3. Then a figure weft-thread will be carried through the top half and a ground weft-thread through the bottom half. The pattern here shown, as will hereinafter be seen as the process of formation is more fully described, is a pattern which can be woven with the mechanism, as shown in Fig. 2. According to the arrangement of harnessthreads as shown in Fig. 1, any kind of pattern desired can be made. The two weftthreads passed in the manner now described are shown in Fig. 11 as beaten up in the fabric, wherein it will be seen that at the turn the figure chain-thread 1 is over the figure weft-thread 6, which is back of ground weftthread 5, which in turn lies under the chainthreads 1, 2, and 3, while chain-thread 4 is under or on the back of ground-thread 5. The threads 6 and 5 are brought into the position they occupyviz., of having the figuret-hread 6 next the fabricby being transferred in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 3that is, by turning the face-thread toward the cloth to the bottom, according to the principle of operations hereinbefore referred to and more fully described in my application, Serial No. 265,639, filed February 28, 1888. This completes one double half-pick, and there has been laid a figure weft-thread on one side and a ground weft-thread in the opposite part of the fabric in process of formation. This will be seen in the opened-out fabric, as shown in Fig. 27, which is a plan view of the same, showing the relative posi tions occupied by the figure and ground weft and chain threads in the opened-out fabric. The figure weft-thread extends from the right and the ground weft-thread from the left. In Fig. 28 is shown a section of the same with the two weft-threads between their respective chain-threads and extending out on the face side of the fabric. It will be observed that ITO TIQ

two weft-threads have each been laid halfway acrossthe fabric from selvage to center, the ground and figure weft-threads each going half-way across and completing the first double half-pick. The weft-threads are next transferred in the direction indicated by the ground weft-thread in its position on the back of the fabric, the face being occupied by the figure weft-thread in this part of the fabric. The next two squares are shed to place the ground-thread 5 on the face over the figure-thread on the back by raising the ground chain-threads 2 and lowering the threads 4, as well as figure-threads 1 and 3. The next single square is shed at the turn to place the ground-thread on the back of the fabric or on the inside of the turn by lowering ground chain-thread i and raising 2, as well as figure chain-threads l and In the lower half, beginning at the lower selvage-thread T, which is raised, the first. two squares of pattern are made by lowering the figure chain-thread l and raising 3, as well as grouinl-threads 2 and i, to place the figure thread 6 on the face. The next two are shed to place the figure-thread G on the back by lifting figure chain-thread 3 and lowering l, as well as ground chain-threads and i. The next single square or turn is shed to have the figure-thread on the face or outside of the same by lowering figure chain-thread 1 and raising 3, as well as ground-chain threads and i. The two weft-threads are beaten up into the fabric and will be seen in that position in Fig. 12, where it will be seen that the figure-thread b extends from the upper selvage-thread 8 to the bottom selvage-thread 7 and the ground-thread 5 from the sclvagethread 7 to the selvage chain-thread 8. It will also be observed that they have passed through the two plies in opposite directions across the same. It will also be seen that in the bottom half the figure-thread of weft, in passing from the face to the back and back again to the face, passes and lies in front of the ground weft-thread, placing the ground wet't-thread 5 between the figure-thread (i and the completed faln-ic, while in the top half the ground-thread 5 is in front of the figure-thread U in the corresponding positions in that part, and that in passing from face to back and returning the figurethread is be tween the ground-thread and. the completed fabric. It will also be observed that the ground-thread 5 is under the selvage chainthread 8 of the upper half and that figure thread 6 is over or on the face side of selvage chain-thread 7, and also that the figure chain-threads l are over or on the face side of the figure weft-thread 6 whether the weftthread (5 is on, the face or back of the fabric,

and that the chain-thread is underneath or on the back of the same. It will also be observed that ground-thread 2 is over and i is underground weft-thread 5 in its place in the face and back, respectively. Thusif the figure weft-thread (3 is on the face the chainthreads I are over or on the face, while 2 and 23 are between, and t is on the back or under ground weft-thread 5, and if ground weftthread 5 is on the face then chain-thread 2 is over or on the face i and 1 between, and 3 is underneath the figure-thread (l on the back.

Thus in one complete double pick the threads 2 and 1 are on the face and 8 and i on the back of the fabric.

In the next shedding, shown hereinafter, the manner of crossing the chain-threads in the two plies will be shown.

In Fig. 99 is shown the opened-out fabric and the first double pick completethin which there are three spaces of figure-thread 6 on the faceone on each side of each selvagc and one in the center, with two spaces of ground-thread 5 between them. The direction taken by the ground-thread in passing from the center to right-hand selvage and the figure-thread in passing from the center to the left-hand selvage will be noticed only in the angle formed, which in the finished goods only discernible upon the closest inspection and in no manner detracts from their appearance. The lnannerin which this angle is formed is plainly shown in Fig. 30, which is a cross-section of the fabric. It will be seen that the groui'ld-thread on the righthand side is in front of the figure-thread and on the left-hand side the figure-thread is in front of the ground-thread, it being understood that in the views, as shown, the righthand side corresponds to the upper and the left-hand side to the lower halves of the fab rie as formed in the loom. The weft-threads 5 and (3 are now in opposite sides of the fabric, having been passed all the way across in opposite directions.

I have repeated the pattern at the next double pick to show the position the weftthr'eads take at the even number of complete or double picks, the one just shown constituting the iirst odd double pick. It will be seen hereinafter that in the odd double picks the same threads of chain are over, and thatthose which are under at the odd double pick are over at the even double pick and cont. *2 wise. Thus the first and third double picks are alike in having the same threads over and under, the same being true of the second and fourth,which are the reverse of the first and third. The weft-threads being in the back boxes, which are stationary, are returned each through the same half of the chain through which it was previously passed. This necessitates shedding the top for ground and the bottom for figure, which is twice in succession for those threads. The ground weft-thread being in the top rear box, the shedding is as will be seen in Fig. 8, beginning, as before, at the top selvage chain-thread 8, which is depressed, thus passing the ground weft-thread 5 around it from back to face. The first two squares of pattern are shed, as just stated, to bring the groui'id-thrcad on the back by liftingi and lowering 2 of ground ply chain, as well as lifting 1 and 3 of figureply chain.- The next two squares of pattern are shed to bring the ground weft-thread on the face by raising thread 4 and lowering 2 of the ground-plychain, as well as '1 and 2) of the figure-ply chain. The next single square of pattern is shed to bring the ground-thread on the back by lowering threads 2 and raising 4 of the ground-ply chain, as well as 1 and 3 of figure-ply chain.

The bottom shedding is formed by lowering the selvage chain-thread 7 and passing figure weftthread 6 from the face and around it toward the back. same are shed according to the pattern to bring the figure-thread [J on the face by loweringchain-threads 3 and raising 1 of figure ply chain, as well as 2 and 4 of ground-ply chain. The nexttwo squares are shed to have the figure-thread 6 on the back by raising threads 1 and lowering 3 of figure-ply chain, as well as threads 2 and 4t of ground-ply chain. The next single square of pattern is shed so as to place the figure-thread on the face by lowering thread and raising 1 of figure-ply chain, as well as threads 2 and 4 of groundply chain. Through these two sheddings the weftthr'eads are passed to the front and will be seen in Fig. 7, which also shows the previons double pick beaten up and the appearanee of the same at the outside of the center or turn. The weft-threads 6 and 5 are beaten up into the fabric, as shown in Fig. 13, wherein, as in Fig. 11, the shaded figurethread 6 is between the ground-thread 6 and the completed fabric at the front or turn. This was brought about by transferring the figure-thread, in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 7, from bottom to top toward the cloth, according to the principle previously explained, the figure-thread being required on the face. I

The opened-out fabric in the process of construction is shown in Fig. 31, wherein is shown the first double pick completed with both figure and ground threads extending all the way across the fabric from selvage to selvage, the figure-thread of the third double half-pick filling the left and the ground thread the right-hand half of the fabric.

The cross-section of the above double halfpick is shown in Fig. 32, which shows the relative position of the several threads and the positions taken by the two weft-threads in the two plies as extending from the body of the fabric on the face side. It will be seen that the figure-thread is to the left of the ground-thread, while in Fig. 28 it was 011 the right-hand side. his is brought about by the ground-thread entering from the lefthand side of the fabric in Fig. 32, while it entered from the right in Fig. 23, thegroundthread entering from the opposite side. The figure-thread 6 now passes around the ground-thread 5 toward the cloth, so as to be kept in its ply on the face, and enters the next shedding, formed as shown in Fig. 10, wherein the upper selvage-thread S is raised. The next two squares of pattern are shed to bring the figure-thread on the face by raising threads 3 and depressing 1 of the figureply chain-threads, as well as 2 and 4 of the ground-ply chain. The next two squares of The two squares next to the,

pattern are shed to bring the figure-thread 6 on the back by depressing threads 1 and raising 3 of the figure-ply chain, as well as ground-threads 2 and 4: of the ground-ply chain. The next single square of pattern is shed to bring the figurethread 6 on the face by raising threads 3 and lowering 1. of the figure-ply chain, as well as threads 2 and of the ground-ply chain. The lower half is shed for ground weft-thread 5 by raising the selVage-thread 7. The first two squares of pattern are shed to bring the ground-thread 5 on the back by raising the threads 2 and lowering 4 of ground-ply chain, as well as threads 1 and 3 of figure-ply chain. The next two squares are shed to bring the ground-thread 5 on the face by lowering threads 4 and raising 2 of ground-ply chain, as Well as threads 1 and 3 of figure-plychain. The next single square is shed to bring the ground-thread 5 on the back by lifting threads 2 and lowering 1 of ground-ply chain, as well'as 1 and 3 of figure-pl y chain. Through these two sheddings the two weft-threads are passed, the ground-weft thread in the bottom, the figure-thread 6 in the top, and are shown in edge View in Fig. 9, and their position as beaten up in the loom is shown in Fig. 14, wherein the ground-thread is seen over the selvage-thread 7 and the figurethread under the selvage-thread 8.

The opened-out fabric will be seen in Fig. 33, showing two double picks of weft laid side by side, with the figure weft-thread (3 extending out on the right under selvagethread 8 and the ground weft-thread 5 extending out 011 the left over chain-thread 7. A section of the same is seen in Fig. 34, wherein will be seen the figure-thread 6 on the'righthand side in front of the ground-thread 5, while on the left side the ground-thread 5 is in front of figure-thread G in their crossings from one ply to the opposite. This will also be seen in Fig. 33, where the slight variation will be more readily observed. The several chain-threads have in these two double picks each been over their corresponding weftthreads. At one double pick one half of the chain-threads of each ply is overand the corresponding half under, and at the next pick they change places, the one that was over being under and the one that was under being over. Thus in Figs. and 31 it will be seen that 4 is over and 2 is under 5 all the way across the fabric, and 3 is over and 1 is under thread 6, without reference to the position their plies occupy in the fabric, whether on the face or back, and it will also be seen that the thread 4 is over 5 and is seen from the face and 2 is under and shows on the back, while 3 is over 6 on the face and 1 is under and shows 011 the back. Thus it willbe seen that the threads 3 and at are on the face and 1 and 2 on the back over their respectiveweftthreads in the several parts of the pattern. The remaining portion of the chain-threads of the two plies are between the weft-threads 5 and 6 and are 1, 2, 3, and 4, 1 being under 6 on the face and 3 over 6 on the back and 2 being under 5 on the face and 4 over 5 on the back in their respective positions. This is just the reverse of the first double pick, as shown in section, Fig. 30, wherein 1 and 2 are on the face and 3 and ion the back of the fabric. This forms a regular cross of threads 1 and 3 and 2 and 4: in each ply. This is con tinued all through the fabric in the formation. The weft-th reads have completed their sequence of positions of over and under, and at the completion of the fourth double shedding the shuttles, as well the several positions of the weft-threads, have completed their sequences and are in their initial positions. Thus in Fig. 4 the top is shed for figure weft-thread with chain-thread 1 over the same and the bottom for ground with 2 over. At the second double shedding, Fig. 6, the top is shed for ground with 2 over and the bottom for figure with 1 over. At the third double shedding, Fig. 8, the top is shed for ground with 4 over and the bottom for figure with 3 over. At the fourth double shedding, Fig. 10, the top is shed for figure with 3 over and the bottom for ground with 1 over. Thus at the completion of the fourth double shedding, itwill be seen that the shuttle that started from the top is again in that position, as well as the shuttle that started from the bottom is again in that position. It will also be seen that the first and second double sheddings are the same so far as which threads are over the weft-thread, it being understood that a weft-thread occupies a part of the face and back, according to the pattern. Thus the first double shedding would shed the two plies as required for figure and ground in their several halves, and the second double shedding is just reversed, so as to fill the part of the face and back remaining vacant. Thus two double sheddings are required for one double pick or one thread of pattern. It is not necessary to repeat the pattern at the second stitch, as it can be any, as desired. I have merely shown the same for convenience and to show the several chain-threads in all positions.

In Fig. 16 is shown the fifth double shedding, in which the top is shed for the figurethread 6 and the bottom for the groundthread 5. In this shedding the same chainthreads are over and under each weft-thread in the two sheddings, as in the first double sheddin g, Fig. 4c, 1 being over the figure-thread and 2 over the ground-thread. The difference is that the pattern requires the colors to change places in the fabric, and at the turn at the top is shed to put the figure-thread on the back and the bottom to put the groundthread 011 the face.

Fig. 15 shows the two previous double picks beaten up with the figure-threads on the face at the front. The threads 5 and 6 are beaten up and occupy the position as shown in Fig. 23, wherein it will be seen that the groundthread 5 is next the fabric and between it and the figure-thread 6. This was brought about by turning the threads in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 15, by turning the ground-thread 5 toward the cloth from the bottom to top, in order to keep the ground-thread in its ply which is to show on the face at the turn.

The position the threads will occupyin the fabric is shown in Fig. 35, wherein the groundthread is shown on the left and the figurethread on the right side of the fabric, and is also seen in section in Fig. 36, showing the several threads in their respective positions, as well as the weft-threads extending out from the center of the fabric. It will also be seen that on the left-hand side both the sides show ground-threads in face and back, and

likewise the figure-threads on the right. This is due to the fact that the threads have taken the places occupied by the other in the preceding pick, and is due only to the pattern.

The sixth double shedding is shown in Fig. 18, in which the top is shed for ground and the bottom for figure, and wherein the samenuinbered threads are OVQI' as in the second double shedding, Fig. 6. The sixth shedding is a continuation of the fifth, as shown in Fig. 16. The weft-threads are shown in Fig. 17 in position with the ground-thread outside. The threads are beaten up into the fabric and are shown in position in Fig. 24:, wherein a ground-thread is on the outside at the turn, and in all parts of the figure it occupies the position before held on the face by the figurethread, the remaining part being now the figure which was previously ground. It will also be observed that in the transferring of the threads at the turn, in the change of color for the face, the threads were turned twice in succession in one and the same direction. This always occurs in a change of color for face at the turn, and will be in either direction, as required.

Fig. 37 shows the completion of the third double pick opened out, and it will be seen that the pattern is shifted so that the figurethread is on the face two spaces and that the ground-thread is next the selvages and in the center between the two squares of figurethreads. Fig. 38 shows a transverse section of the same, as well as the position of the threads.

The seventh double shedding is formed by shedding the top for ground and the bottom for'figure weft-threads. The pattern being the same as in the previous shedding, the several parts are shed as before, except that the thread at is over the ground and 3 over the figure thread, and in that-is like the third shedding, Fig. 8. The weft-threads are carried through and will be seen in Fig. 19 in their respective positions, as well as the previous pick beaten home. The ground-thread is on the face at the turn.

In Fig. 25 is seen the position the several threads occupy in the fabric as formed, the

ground-thread 5 again being next the fabric, having been placed there by transferring in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 19. as the ground-thread is to be again on the outside. The position these threads occupy in the opened-out fabric is shown in Fig. 39, wherein the figure-thread is on the left-hand side and the ground on the right-hand side in their respective positions, as shown in section in Fig. 40;

The eighth double shedding is shown in Fig. 22, wherein the top is shed for figure and the bottom for ground, and being a continuation of the seventh double shedding, Fig. 20 the same chain-threads are over, thread 3 be ing over 6 and at over 5 on the face.

The weft-threads 5 and 6 are shown in position, Fig. 2], as well as the previous pick beaten up, with the ground-thread on the face at the turn on top. The weft-threads are beaten up and occupy the position as indicated in Fig. 26 and in the opened-out fabric as formed in Fig. 41, wherein the groundt-hread is seen extending out on the left and the figure-thread on the right of the fabric, as will also be seen in Fig. 42, which is a transverse section of the same. This completes the pattern, the next pick. being a repetition of the first, the threads all being in their proper position to be shed for the same. It will be observed in this pattern that each individual chain of'both figure and ground ply have been on the face and back at some part of the fabric. It will also be observed that the thread of weft that passes from the center to the selvage edge will lie in front of the other thread in its passage from one side of the fabric to the other, and that the opposite half of the same double pick will have the other weft-thread in like position.

In the process of turning the selvage I have shown one thread passing under the one and over the other selvage chain-thread in each pick. If so desired, both weft-threads may be passed over and then under the selvage threads. All that is required is to shed the opposite of that shown in the several sheddings that is,instead of lifting both selvage chain-threads, to shed the same by bringing both to the center, and at the next shedding of separating them by raising the top and lowering the bottom: This is equivalent to lifting both as regards the opened-out fabric and would allow both weft-threads to pass under and then over at the next shedding. This would make both the selvages like either the right or left'hand side, as desired.

It will be seen that as no drop-box is required, for the reason that both shuttles are in motion simultaneously, the selvages are turned simultaneously by the two weftthreads, thereby forming a close tight selvage with no crossing over of weft-thread.

If we consider the relative movement of the shuttles with reference to the fabric opened out fiat, it will be seen that the figure and ground are being formed intheir respective parts at the same time and that the shuttles start from opposite selvages and traverse the fabric in opposite directions, and in their passage pass one another and arrive on the opposite sides from whence they started and complete one double pick or thread of pattern,

having laid afigure-thread and groun d-thread.

from selvage to selvage. It is necessary, to pass these threads by one another at their arrival at the center, and the manner of passing is governed by the weft-thread that is to be on the face, the face being designated as the outside of the fabric as formed in the loom, and to keep the thread on the outside it must be turned toward the cloth in the process of formation. Thus whichever thread is to be on the outside, as necessitated by the pattern and effected by the shedding, it must be carried toward the fabric whether it be in the top or bottom shedding. The order of shedding is to shed for the same weft-thread twice in succession in the two halves. Thus when a shuttle is received in the rear boxes the shedding will be repeated to take it to the center. The sheddin gs are reversed when the shuttles are in the front boxes, as it is there the threads are transferred from one half to the other.

What I claim as my invention is 1. The method of weaving two-ply figured fabrics, which consists in simultaneously forming an opening or shedding in each of the two halves of a single set of chain-threads, each half consisting of a series of four similarly-numbered chain-threads-namely, an opening for a figure-thread in one half between two given numbered threads of that series and an opening for a ground-thread in the other half between the other two threads of that seriesat the same time separating the threads in the order requisite for the produce tion of the design, then'simultaneously introducing a figure and ground weft-thread into their respective openings from the selvage edges toward the center, then repeating the shedding operation, forming two openings, as before, between the same-numbered chainthreads, but in opposite halves and in accordance with the pattern, and again introducing the weft-threads into their respective openings, carrying each through the half of the fabric just traversed by the other.

2. The method of weaving two-ply figured fabrics, which consists in simultaneously forming an opening or shedding in each of the two halves of a single set of chain-threads, one shedding for a figure weft-thread and one shedding for a ground weftthread, then simultaneously introducing a figure and ground weft-thread into their respectlve openings from the selvage edges of the fabric located on one side of the loom toward the center of the fabric located on the other side of theground, and vice versa, then reversing the' position of the weftthreads with relation to IIO the two halves of the fabric and carrying that weft-thread which is to be on the face of the fabric at the center or turn of the same over the other weftthread by passing the same next the cloth, again introducing the weftthreads, carrying each through its respective opening to complete the passage of the weftthreads across the fabric.

3. The method of weaving two-ply figured fabrics, which consists in simultaneously forming an opening or shedding in each of the two halves of a single set of chain-threads, one shedding for a figure weft-thread and one shedding for a ground weft-thread, then simultaneously introducing a figure and ground weftrthread into their respective openings from the selvage side thereof toward the center, then repeating the shedding operation, shedding for figure the half just shed for ground, and vice versa, again introducing the weft -threads, carrying each of the latter through the half just traversed by the other, 1

repeating the shedding operation, shedding for figure and ground, as in the last operation, again simultaneously introducing the weftthreads, carrying each through the half just traversed by it and around its selvage chainthread, thus forming one selvage with the figure weft-thread and the other selvage with the ground weft-thread, then again repeating the shedding operation, shedding for figure the half just shed for ground, and vice versa, and again simultaneously introducing the weft-threads, carrying each to the selvage from which it started, and completing the sequence of operations.

a. The method of weaving two-ply figured fabrics, which consists in simultaneously forming an opening or shedding in each of the two halves of a single set of chain-threads, one opening for a figure weft-thread in one half of the chain-threads between two given numbered chain-threads of that set and one opening for aground weft-thread in the other half of the chain-threads between the other two chain-threads of that set, then simultaneously introducing a figure and ground weftthread into their respective openings from the selva-ge sides thereof toward the center, then reversing the position of the weft-threads and passing the weft-thread which is to be on the face of the fabric at thatpoint next the cloth, then repeating the shedding operation, forming two openings, as before, between the same-numbered chain-threads, only in opposite halves of the draw-threads, again introducing the weft-threads, carrying each to the opposite selvage from that from which it started, again repeating the shedding operation, forming two openings, as before, and between the sam e-numbered chain-threads in the same halves as in the last operation, the chain-threads of the two pairs being, however, reversed in position with relation to the face and back of the fabric, then again introducing the Weft-threads, carrying each through the half of the chain-threads just traversed, then reversing the position of the weft-threads as before, again repeating the shedding operation, shedding for figure the half just shed for ground, and vice versa, the chain-threads being shed as in the last operation, only in opposite halves, and then again introducing the weft, carrying each of the latter to the selvages from which they started.

Signed at Taunton, in the county of Bristol and State of Massachusetts, this 22d day of February, A. D. 1889.

ABRAM D. EMERY.

\Vitnesses:

WM. T. DONNELLY, WALTER T. EMERY. 

